Mountaineering
in Nepal is appropriate. The first
trekker in Nepal is appropriate.
The first trekkers in Nepal were,
of course, mountaineers who where
either on their way to climb peaks
or were exploring routes up unclimbed
peaks. There was furious mountaineering
activity in Nepal from 1950 to
the 1960s the emphasis had shifted
to previously impossible feats
such as the south face of Annapurna
and the south west face of Everest,
both of which were climbed by
expeditions let by Chris bonington.
The expeditions in the 1960s and
40s were often well equipped,
and some times lavish, thanks
to sponsorship from governments,
foundations, magazines, newspapers,
film makers, TV producers and
even private companies.
Expeditions have
become big busines
s and climbers
now approach the job with the
appropriate degree of seriousness
and dedication. It is not uncommon
for expeditions to refuse trekkers
admission into their base camps.
The team members do not have the
time or energy to entertain tourists,
and there have also been incidents
of trekkers taking souvenirs from
among the expensive and essential
items that often lie around such
camps.
There
are three seasons for mountaineering
in Nepal. The permission season
from April to early June was once
the only season during which expeditions
climbed major peaks.
In the 1950s all expeditions where in the lull before the storm period that occurs between the end of the winter winds and the beginning of the monsoon snow. Cold and high winds drove back the Swiss expedition to Mt Everest in 1952 when they attempted to climb the mountain in the autumn. It was not until 1973 that an expedition success fully climbed Everest in autumn.
Now the autumn or post monsoon season of September and Scoter is a period of many successful expeditions.
In 1979 the ministry of tourism established a season for winter mountaineering. It is bitterly cold at high elevations from November to February, but recent advances in equipment technology have allowed several teams to accomplish what was thought before to be impossible a winter ascent of a Himalayan peak.
Climbing during the monsoon, from June to august, is not practical from the Nepal side, though the north face of Everest has been climbed during august. Two organizations control climbing in Nepal